Alternative Cheddar Gorge
where
Climbing is a Catalyst
pic: Jon Ritson connects the Pinnacles
All pics © Martin Crocker or as credited
Winter-only climbing in Cheddar Gorge is not to most people’s liking. However, today, many climbs, including Chili Cheesedog on Stepped Wall are available throughout much or (on the National Trust cliffs) all of the year. Pic: Martin Crocker
Early routes like the famed Coronation Street, climbed by Chris Bonington in 1965 with the personal approval of the Marquis of Bath, remain among the finest in the gorge. ‘The Street’ is a free route, but many of the steepest bastions were climbed with direct aid from pegs and bolts. Pic: Dave Pickford, www.davidpickford.com
An ascent of Fornicator Simulator, in 1970. A pattern of climbing limited to the winter months evolves in order to avoid the spring and summer when the gorge is populated with visitors. This unofficial access arrangement becomes formalised with owner Longleat Estate in the mid-1970s consequent upon Lord Bath requiring a cliff rescue team to be created. Pic: Dave Ford
With support from the BMC, local volunteers pull together to form the Cheddar Gorge Cliff Rescue Team, a pivotal moment in Cheddar climbing history. Credit: BMC
Pictured at a CragAttak festival in Cheddar Gorge, these jolly folk are members of the current incarnation of the team: Avon and Somerset Search and Rescue (ASSAR). Second from left is its former Chairperson Duncan Massey, himself a trained rescue helicopter pilot. Pic: Carl Ryan
An RAF helicopter on a training rescue exercise above Cheddar Gorge, in 2007. Pic: Martin Crocker
With an access agreement in place, climbing in Cheddar sees a boom from the mid-70s right through the 80s. Here Steve Monks (with partner Arnis Strapcans just out of view) makes an almost-free ascent of West Route in 1978. Pic: Al Churcher
Martin Crocker, tailed by banshees, crimps the first ascent of Siouxie in 1985 on a blank wall hemmed in by characteristic ivy sheets. Throughout this period adventurers probe the steeper and higher faces, peeling back curtains of ivy in the process. Behind lie exceptional routes but their appeal is limited by winter and overriding public safety constraints. Pic: Matt Ward
Cheddar Gorge receives considerable press coverage in the late-80s and early-90s with various parties and experts chipping in to express worries about rock safety and the pros and cons of removing vegetation from the cliffs.
Landowners have to balance recreational interests like climbing against their responsibilities to conserve the Gorge and to keep it safe. I campaign because I want climbers to be heard and to be seen to contribute. At times we must sound oblivious to the bigger picture and the demands upon those who have to manage the Gorge.
Discussions with Cheddar Caves & Gorge develop constructively to the point that I feel able to propose to the BMC that it support a project to rejuvenate climbing in Cheddar Gorge. The hope is that climbs can be restored and a new era of understanding nurtured to enable access to be extended beyond the winter months.
In addition to a local survey, climbers’ views are sounded out in an Open Meeting organised by the BMC. Adventitiously it proves a powerful initiative to relaunch BMC Southwest, the area meeting which had become moribund reportedly because of lack of national support. Poster: BMC
The Cheddar Gorge Climbing Project ‘think tank’, in Cheddar Caves & Gorge’s offices, 2005. Left to right: Hugh Cornwell (Director, Cheddar Caves & Gorge), John Beck (consulting geologist), Martin Crocker (project founder, representing the BMC), Nigel Elliott (Rock-safety Team Leader, Cheddar Caves & Gorge). Pic: Martin Crocker coll.
Any consideration of a proposal to extend access could only be based on a risk-assessment of the individual cliffs and climbs. Pic: Martin Crocker
In order to minimise the risk of rock (or climbing gear) making its way into the road or to any publicly accessible area, the choice of potential extended-access climbing sectors is correlated with existing rock-catch fences. Pic: Martin Crocker
The limestone rock-faces are being destabilised by vegetation including ivy; the roots grow into cracks and joints in the rock, causing progressive damage. Expansive ivy-sheets are commonplace: pictured is the standard way up to Sunset Buttress, in 1973. Pic: Dave Ford
After consulting with the geologist and English Nature, and with Stop/Go road management measures in place, ivy and other intrusive vegetation are painstakingly removed from the selected climbs. Best efforts are made to remove loose rock. Feral goats released into the gorge assist – ivy is cordon bleu for them! Pic: Martin Crocker
A lovingly spruced up Pinnacle Bay c.2005/6. The climbing project’s loose rock and vegetation removal supplements the huge conservation and scaling programme that Longleat Estate carried out in the late-90s. Pic: Martin Crocker
An aim is to safeguard the habitats of rare wild plants including Cheddar Pink – a delicate emblem of Cheddar Gorge – which occupies cliff-top ledges. One way the climbing community can limit its own impact, is to ensure it avoids trampling wild plants at the cliff-top. This was achieved by installing bolted abseil stations at a level beneath conservation-sensitive zones. Pic: Martin Crocker
The Cheddar Gorge Climbing Project Support Group volunteers undergo training in the use of a power drill. (And, no, they didn’t cause the pile of rubble under their work area!) Pic: Martin Crocker
In addition to new abseil stations, bolting technology is required to replace the many old aid and protection bolts. Here’s a sorry looking mound of rotting fixed gear, some of which dates back to the early 1960s. Pic: Martin Crocker
Donations to the associated fixed gear fund are kindly made by the BMC, various companies, and many individuals. Word on ‘the street’ is that no limits are being applied to the encouragement some climbers need in order to make a donation. Pic: Martin Crocker coll.
By Easter 2005 a formal proposal for extended climbing access is submitted to Cheddar Caves & Gorge. Credit: Martin Crocker/BMC
The project presents new route opportunities for those with the drive and knowhow: here’s activist Gordon Jenkin rapping from the Spacehunter pinnacle in 2006 to bolt the winter-only epic Castles Made of Sand. Pic: Martin Crocker
Taking pride in the Gorge’s world class climbing and to launch a new guidebook, Cheddar Caves & Gorge hosts an open day for climbers. The event ushers in a new era of collaboration between landowners and climbers and the potential for a modernised climbing regime. Poster: Cheddar Caves & Gorge
The range of climbing demos takes some choreographing. The participating volunteers risk missing out on Le Déjeuner sur l'herbe (without Manet’s nude of course). Poster: Cheddar Caves & Gorge
Brilliant at marketing, Cheddar Caves & Gorge seeks opportunities to maximise press coverage; one such was a spectacular first-ever tyrolean traverse between the two pinnacles. Credit: Western Daily Press
It must have looked quite a sight from the Cheddar Caves & Gorge open-topped tour bus. Pic: Jonathan Crocker
Nigel Elliott enjoys his trip through space. Pic: Martin Crocker
Star power: Sir Chris is guest of honour. Credit: Western Daily Press
Sir Chris talks about his 1965 ascent of Coronation Street, which was televised by mainstream TV. Pic: Jonathan Crocker
The penultimate pitch of Coronation Street, 300 feet above the High Rock car park. At the picnic I do my best to persuade the audience that The Inspire, an adjacent route of mine, is ‘much better’ than Coronation Street! Notwithstanding the tease, Chris writes to say he’d had ‘a smashing day’. Pic: Martin Crocker
Cheddar Caves & Gorge approves the formal access proposal on the basis that the BMC puts in place a very-part-time climbing warden to help manage the conditions of the new climbing agreement. Pic: Martin Crocker
The climbing warden checks that climbers hold civil liability insurance, and he uses all available resources to encourage climbers to stick to the rules. Pics: Martin Crocker
One day, during a climbing liaison meeting, Cheddar Caves & Gorge Director Hugh suggests: ‘How about a climbing festival?’ Thus, Cheddar Gorge’s CragAttak is born. Poster: Cheddar Caves & Gorge
Unfortunately with just days to go, fate serves up a severe weather warning to coincide with the festival. The festival is rescheduled. Press release: Cheddar Caves & Gorge
September brings better weather, and the festival begins with competitors pitching themselves against a hard climb called Dada. Pic: Martin Crocker
There’s a speed climb too, which sees climbers fly up F6a moves towards the finishing klaxon (that, unhelpfully, runs out of gas and then falls apart!) Pic: Martin Crocker
Local whirlwind Adam Mulholland wins.
Prizes generously donated by local climbing retailers are awarded winning competitors. Pic: Jonathan Crocker
The festival is an opportunity for lots of fun on the Cheddar Man Marathon: here Katy Holden and Guy Percival of the Legal Eagles team abseil in unison down High Rock while earning points for not breaking the delicate thread between the balloons each are carrying. Who dreamed that one up! Pic: Cheddar Caves & Gorge
Others participate in their most alluring attire. Here, Mike Robertson lets his hair down. Pic: Martin Crocker
Meantime a giant ivy-clad slug oozes up Jill, to escape the goats gnashing at its behind. Pic: Cheddar Caves & Gorge
Money is raised by The Cheddar Man Marathon teams for regional charity Children’s Hospice South West.
Another year; another festival. This time we obtain a road closure, so we can spread out safely and optimise use of the Gorge’s topography to make the event ever more jaw-dropping. Poster: Cheddar Caves & Gorge
Lots of familiar faces including ASSAR and Undercover Rock help out once more. A 60-metre tyrolean across the road raises heads skywards but all eyes are affixed elsewhere. Pic: Carl Ryan coll.
Special guest Steve McClure performs an unscheduled bat-hang from the jug on Sherryland (F7a+), this year’s difficulty climb. ITV West interviews him. Pic: Carl Ryan coll.
Naturally it is raining again. Ben Bransby courageously tries to hang soaking wet slopers in the bouldering comp’. Pics: Carl Ryan coll.
Exacting revenge on photographer Carl Ryan gets the thumbs up from Gary Gibson. (Wet weather and the paparazzi are enough to drive organisers nuts!) Pic: Carl Ryan coll.
It’s summer 2009 and time for climbing festival 3 – as elaborate, complex, but utterly sensational as ever. Once again press releases go out to the media. Poster: Cheddar Caves & Gorge
John Alcock and cameraman from ITV West interview Hugh Cornwell at the eastern end of the latest challenge – a 60-metre tyrolean across The Amphitheatre on the Gorge’s skyline. Pic: Martin Crocker
Once again the weather turns unsettled, and an awning is requisitioned to protect the Sunset String Quintet (Bristol Cathedral Choir School students) from showers, if not the wind. Pic: Martin Crocker
A virtuosi member of the quintet seizes the opportunity to jump on the tour bus to woo visitors with a little Paganini. Pic: Martin Crocker
But the weekend is equally about ‘slacker’ Jon Ritson, here pictured warming up for his second year’s attempt at a record-breaking highline between the pinnacles. All the local press and TV are lined up at the cliff-edge (mostly in slippery leather-soled shoes), but Jon has to cancel: the wind is too strong. Pics: Martin Crocker/Carl Ryan
Jon returns mid-week, and fortunately I have my camera to hand to record his remarkable success. Western Daily Express runs the story.
As does the Daily Mirror. (Really chuffed to have my picture in a national, but – like the Western Daily Express – a credit was not to be seen. It happened in the Daily Telegraph too. Some things aren’t meant to be.)
A brilliant trio from Cheddar Caves & Gorge, without whom the festivals could not have taken form. From left to right: Paul Ballantyne (Rocksport Manager), the late Bob Smart (Marketing Manager), and Nigel Elliott. Pic: Carl Ryan
It was rather a hopeful notion to try to rival or even eclipse Coronation Street, but – always willing to give climbing its due – the local newspaper, Cheddar Valley News, keenly runs the story.
Eventually, climbing partner Gordon and I agree we should call the route Sullenberger after the cool-headed airline pilot who just weeks before had made an astonishing emergency landing in the Hudson River. So far as the new route eclipsing Coronation Street was concerned, well that was climbing journalism being mischievous again. Credit: Cheddar Valley News
Combining with other events on Mendip, we seek to make the 2010 CragAttaK one to remember. A tyrolean is planned and tested across the mouth of the gorge, its aim to follow the exact line of circus artist Omankowski’s celebrated 82-metre long tight-rope crossing in 1959. But will the weather play ball fourth time around? Poster: Cheddar Caves & Gorge
The plan is to slide to the centre and abseil into the open-topped Cheddar Gorge tour bus as the cameras click and whir: great TV for the Gorge! The BBC turns up as did the wind and rain, and by the time the latter had stopped the former had left. The abseil into the bus late in the day proved an eerily quiet but still revolutionary moment, somehow apt. It proves to be the last hurrah of CragAttak - its dominion drowned by the British weather. Pic: Martin Crocker
The Gorge landscape provides a high profile to deserving causes. With Cheddar Caves & Gorge’s approval Adam Young occupies a porta-ledge strapped to Sunset Buttress for seven days to raise money for the Selena Young Cancer Research Fund. Pic: Martin Crocker
There is always something exciting going on in the Gorge. As gracious hosts, Cheddar Caves & Gorge illustrates that climbing is held dear to the Gorge’s roots – a connect between conservation, adventure, and landownership values. Shrinking violet or not, appearances on the BBC's Countryfile and Country Tracks further the cause.
It is an experience to talk about climbing to dignitaries on the tour bus. Like when Prince Edward The Earl of Wessex, and Princess Sophie The Countess of Wessex visit in 2014. Performing alongside is stalwart ASSAR Chairperson Duncan Massey. Pic: Cheddar Caves & Gorge
And then there’s the Marvellous dressing up: and why not? Pic: Martin Crocker coll.
Success, progress, and change invariably root in hard graft and ‘elbow grease’, often that of the unsung. Here, Yousef Haddu and Ian Butterworth partake of some extreme brushing, enhancing the safety of climbing on The Wave. Pic: Martin Crocker
Don’t drive too fast in the Gorge! Pic: Martin Crocker. Safety in the gorge like the climbing agreement only becomes fragile if caution and good conduct do not prevail. I can’t imagine many people now wanting a return to………
Winter climbing! Pic: Martin Crocker
Consider this pic a ‘thank-you’. He may yet ask me to take it down, but here’s Hugh Cornwell, former Director of Cheddar Caves & Gorge at his workplace. Hugh would often talk about ‘the halo effect’ of climbing upon his organisation. So I should Photoshop a halo above Hugh. It would be a well-deserved anointment for his embrace of climbing and the opportunities granted for a great future. Pic: Martin Crocker